Naturetrek Brazil Atlantic Rainforest Bargain Birdwatching
Lodge details
Contact details :
Andy Foster
Serra dos Tucanos
RJ116KM52
Boca do Mato
Cachoeiras de Macacu
Rio de Janeiro
Tel: +55(21) 2649 1557
Email: serradostucanos@hotmail.com
Website: www.serradostucanos.com.br
Birding Guide
Peter Forrest - at the above address
Participants
Lindsay and Jeremy Bradley
Judy and Roger Broad
Chris and Helena Craig
Anne Mansfield
Stephen Owen
John Dixon Alex Lewis
Pam Tregunna
Jonathan Turner
27/03/2009
Photos of Insects seen
So many beautiful butterflies and moths, which had to remain un-named. There isn't a suitable book, although one is being produced, no-one at the Lodge could help either. We tried a Butterflies and Moths of Argentina book but, the notoriously difficult to ID family didn't have common names either, just the latin.
26/03/2009
Departure Day
Saturday March 14
The last day is always a hiatus, especially for an evening flight. After breakfast, Pam and I birded the garden mainly from the pool area. Mid morning we strolled back towards the Lodge to find Peter ensconced with the group who had birded the Trails. We'd just missed a brief visit from a Creamy-bellied Thrush, which would have been a tick.It's been missing all week until now. Peter read out the results of the group's 'Top 3 birds' poll. Blond-crested Woodpecker, Seriema and Spot-billed Toucanet, in that order. Incredible list to have to make, in the end my choice was rather arbitrary.
Having finished packing and showered, settled our laundry and cold drinks bill and paid into the staff gratuities box,we lunched at 12.30, said our goodbyes and drove to the airport.
As always, I had to unpack my camera gear etc and my bionic knees set off the alarms going through Xray.
A very small airport with few shops and facilities. Plans to buy decent postcards and presents for my grandchildren were binned. Couldn't find either in the 3 suitable shops available. Well, I could have bought Harry a Tshirt but baulked at paying £20.
Flight
Rio - Paris AF443
Dep. 1750 Arrive 0835 on the 15th
Paris - Heathrow - AF1280
Dep. 10.00 Arrive 10.15
We read, had a drink and had an uneventful flight to Paris, both of us had more sleep than ever before on a night flight. Thank you Nytol and a bad last night.
It's always difficult to find people to say goodbye at the end of a trip, especially this time as only six of us were flying on to London. Chris and Helena left by taxi this morning to see Rio City and to catch a later flight. Judy and Roger flew to Glasgow via Amsterdam, John to Manchester.
Lindsay, Jeremy, Stephen, Alex and ourselves said our farewells at the luggage collection carousel - all our luggage was there as we arrived. A record. Because we were so prompt we had to wait nearly 20 minutes for our car to be delivered but it still saved us time and effort.
Apart from shopping at Thetford Sainsbury's we drove straight home, had a good journey and were in, to a mountain of post and welcoming cats, early afternoon.
Total trip Birds : 228
Life birds: 92
The last day is always a hiatus, especially for an evening flight. After breakfast, Pam and I birded the garden mainly from the pool area. Mid morning we strolled back towards the Lodge to find Peter ensconced with the group who had birded the Trails. We'd just missed a brief visit from a Creamy-bellied Thrush, which would have been a tick.It's been missing all week until now. Peter read out the results of the group's 'Top 3 birds' poll. Blond-crested Woodpecker, Seriema and Spot-billed Toucanet, in that order. Incredible list to have to make, in the end my choice was rather arbitrary.
Having finished packing and showered, settled our laundry and cold drinks bill and paid into the staff gratuities box,we lunched at 12.30, said our goodbyes and drove to the airport.
As always, I had to unpack my camera gear etc and my bionic knees set off the alarms going through Xray.
A very small airport with few shops and facilities. Plans to buy decent postcards and presents for my grandchildren were binned. Couldn't find either in the 3 suitable shops available. Well, I could have bought Harry a Tshirt but baulked at paying £20.
Flight
Rio - Paris AF443
Dep. 1750 Arrive 0835 on the 15th
Paris - Heathrow - AF1280
Dep. 10.00 Arrive 10.15
We read, had a drink and had an uneventful flight to Paris, both of us had more sleep than ever before on a night flight. Thank you Nytol and a bad last night.
It's always difficult to find people to say goodbye at the end of a trip, especially this time as only six of us were flying on to London. Chris and Helena left by taxi this morning to see Rio City and to catch a later flight. Judy and Roger flew to Glasgow via Amsterdam, John to Manchester.
Lindsay, Jeremy, Stephen, Alex and ourselves said our farewells at the luggage collection carousel - all our luggage was there as we arrived. A record. Because we were so prompt we had to wait nearly 20 minutes for our car to be delivered but it still saved us time and effort.
Apart from shopping at Thetford Sainsbury's we drove straight home, had a good journey and were in, to a mountain of post and welcoming cats, early afternoon.
Total trip Birds : 228
Life birds: 92
Three-toed Jacamar Excursion
Friday March 13
The Three-toed Jacamar all day excursion, this sought after endemic must be a shoo-in else they wouldn't be so bold. This was, as warned, a day of driving, 200 ks in all, hopping out to bird and driving on again. Suits me fine!
A little further along the road was a tree with a Rufous Hornero nest, typical of the family sometimes called Ovenbirds,photographed by Pam.
My notes for to-day are rather sketchy and this account is not in the correct order of events...........
A shout from myself and Jonathan brought a roadside stop for 'a red-billed' bird which turned out to be a
Late back at 6.05 for the 6.30 bird log, two Americans joined us in the dining room but sat at a seperate table. They were staying for a few days after some time in the Pantanal.
I'd found some phone reception earlier, Bridget had texted the footie score, Man U 2 Inter Milan 0. Excellent.
The Three-toed Jacamar all day excursion, this sought after endemic must be a shoo-in else they wouldn't be so bold. This was, as warned, a day of driving, 200 ks in all, hopping out to bird and driving on again. Suits me fine!
Many of the stops were roadside, the first overlooking a marshy area where three Streamer-tailed Tyrants perched reed top. Excellent. Responding to the tape, a Blackish Rail showed its red legs off well in a small pool near to us. Two squawking Blue-winged Macaws flew high and away before we could locate their perching tree.
Next stop was a partially built cafe and gardens in a great location overlooking extensive valleys and hills, where we saw our first American Kestrels.
Elevenses was at a cafe in the middle of a town - I don't know where! Whilst the others refreshed themselves, I attempted to contact Barclaycard in London. We'd underestimated the amount of Brazilian Real we needed to leave tips for the staff and guides and hadn't cleared our credit cards for use abroad. I eventually worked out how to put a + into my phone for international calls and got through. All is well. By the time I'd left my seat on the kerb in noisy traffic and extricated my finger from my ear, the group had finished. Luckily I'd ordered a soft drink and Pam had got me a packet of crisps, they were quickly dealt with.....
The lunch stop was ghastly - apart from THE bird. Roadside, no shade and three men digging fence post holes nearby, using two spade-like tools joined together at the handle. The new posts brought by horse and cart. BUT three Three-toed Jacamars perched on roadside branches opposite the parking spot. A good stake-out. Pretty drab birds for Jacamars, they do not compare with Cuban for example, but a gleaming bronze in the sun.
Three-toed Jacamar(not my photo)
A little further along the road was a tree with a Rufous Hornero nest, typical of the family sometimes called Ovenbirds,photographed by Pam.
My notes for to-day are rather sketchy and this account is not in the correct order of events...........
A shout from myself and Jonathan brought a roadside stop for 'a red-billed' bird which turned out to be a
White-eared Puffbird, re-located by Roger.
We also saw Gilt-edged Tanager, Chopi Blackbird, Swainson's and Bran-coloured Flycatchers, Grey-capped Tyrannulet - somewhere.........One area began to look much like another.
A downhill short walk ending with a tree scattered clearing on the left gave Pam the opportunity to take a photograph of a smart Long-tailed Tyrant using her trusty Ixus.
Long-tailed Tyrant
A Sooty Grassquit was not an easy bird to locate but, eventually, everyone succeeded even though I'd have liked better views.
Mid afternoon when it was still rather hot, was the only real walk of the day. An empty lake and an apparently empty forest. I started with a two minute Mrs Grumps session (just to Pam and Judy) and ended up doing the whole walk which produced several new birds. I missed the Dusky-legged Guan seen disappearing into a tree but, we had very good views of one as we drove out onto the road, silhouetted on a bare Cecropia branch. Not a new bird for us but always good to see one.
Before we set off this morning, Jonathan became the list keeper to see if we could break the day record challenge of 109 species (a September trip record). Hearts sank mid morning when a hitherto unknown rule that only birds seen outside the Lodge gates could be counted, was mooted by Peter to considerable heckling. Considering the time of year we did very well, equalling the record. If only those Snow Geese and Jungle Fowl were allowed......
The Lodge vehicle
Late back at 6.05 for the 6.30 bird log, two Americans joined us in the dining room but sat at a seperate table. They were staying for a few days after some time in the Pantanal.
I'd found some phone reception earlier, Bridget had texted the footie score, Man U 2 Inter Milan 0. Excellent.
REGUA (Reserva Ecológica de Guapiaçu)
Thursday March 12
Not very keen to get up this morning after a very disturbed night. The main road is invisible from the Lodge but, the heavy vehicles grinding their way uphill during the night is disturbing when we're used to silence at home.
The half day excursion to a local nature reserve, Reserva Ecologica de Guapi Acu meant a deal of driving on dirt roads through rolling countryside with the usual fantastic backdrop of mountains. Clear and sunny, no cloud at all to obscure the views.
The first stop was to view two raptors perched in dead trees high on a hill.The White-tailed Hawk was immediately identified, the Short-tailed Hawk took a lot of discussion. Plenty of Guira Cuckoos to-day to satisfy Roger who'd missed them so far.
The van was parked at the entrance and immediate excitement, a tree full of Swallow Tanagers, the males a stunning pale airforce blue. Not my photograph - I didn't carry my camera on these walking days as I didn't want to keep ther group waiting whilst I used it. I carry it everywhere at home together with my 'scope.
Some of the group visited the toilet block before we set off and we also viewed the area for the Horneros they found fossicking on the ground nearby.
For the first hour or so, I enjoyed a very pleasant ramble through woodland with plenty of birds to see. Sitting on my stool, which I carried for the first time, I had very good views of a male White-bearded Manakin wing-popping and fizzing at his lek. A family of which I am very fond. Various skulkers such as Sooretama Slaty Ant-Shrike, White-flanked Antwren and Long-billed Wren gave themselves up, responding to Peter's tapes and illuminated by laser pointers. Yellow-backed Tanager was new for the list and for me, another wonderful bird family.
As the morning wore on and got hotter and hotter, the path became very narrow, steeply uphill and the pace increasingly fast as there were no birds seen nor heard.
By the time we reached the wetland area it was 45C in the sun and 36C in the shade - of which there was little.
Positively life draining heat. I lost all will to bird - that takes some doing. The only new bird wanted by me had not been seen all year, hopes were low, but a single male Masked Duck appeared amongst the Whistling Ducks and Brazilian Teal. Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture was also a new trip and world list bird, White-rumped Monjita and Common Waxbills a pleasure to see again. Not enough shade on the causeway for the discussion re whether Muscovy Duck was countable or not! Peter was scathing, others tongue in cheek keen to add it.
Absolutely shattered, steaming hot and wet through, the van was a welcome sight. The whole group sat as soon as they saw some benches in the shade - but shot up when an apparently amazed Peter suggested driving the van over to collect us.
Two Tropical Screech Owls were back in their favoured tree and there we had an unscheduled lecture from Nicholas Locke, the English/Brazilian in charge of the park. This would normally be of interest to me but I departed to sit on the van step, soon joined by Alex. Andy Foster,our Lodge owner, lived here for two years and started the Park off.
The driver, Mauro, had visited his mother in law whilst we were away and noticed some 'different herons'.
A short detour down a track and four lovely Whistling Herons at a roadside pool, flanks and throats heaving as they panted in the extreme heat.
Back in time for a welcome lunch of tasty Chicken Stroganoff and the usual salad etc.
I had a nap after lunch (real oldie stuff) whilst Pam read, we had a coffee on the porch and then I tried again to photograph the Hummingbirds etc. The rest of the group had gone off birding the Lodge Trails again. I wish I still could but have to frustratingly accept that I could in the past. Some of the photographs I took with my Digital Camera Module (DCM)attached to my scope.
Rufous-bellied Thrush
Plain-breasted Thrush
Golden-Chevroned Tanager
Male Brazilian Tanager (I wish it was a better photo)
Some of the other birds photographed in the garden
Blue Dacnis
House Wren
Violet-capped Woodnymph
Red-necked Tanager
Sayaca Tanager
Swallow-tailed Hummingbird
Saffron Finch
Chestnut-bellied Euphonia
Grey-hooded Flycatcher
Not very keen to get up this morning after a very disturbed night. The main road is invisible from the Lodge but, the heavy vehicles grinding their way uphill during the night is disturbing when we're used to silence at home.
The half day excursion to a local nature reserve, Reserva Ecologica de Guapi Acu meant a deal of driving on dirt roads through rolling countryside with the usual fantastic backdrop of mountains. Clear and sunny, no cloud at all to obscure the views.
The first stop was to view two raptors perched in dead trees high on a hill.The White-tailed Hawk was immediately identified, the Short-tailed Hawk took a lot of discussion. Plenty of Guira Cuckoos to-day to satisfy Roger who'd missed them so far.
The van was parked at the entrance and immediate excitement, a tree full of Swallow Tanagers, the males a stunning pale airforce blue. Not my photograph - I didn't carry my camera on these walking days as I didn't want to keep ther group waiting whilst I used it. I carry it everywhere at home together with my 'scope.
Some of the group visited the toilet block before we set off and we also viewed the area for the Horneros they found fossicking on the ground nearby.
For the first hour or so, I enjoyed a very pleasant ramble through woodland with plenty of birds to see. Sitting on my stool, which I carried for the first time, I had very good views of a male White-bearded Manakin wing-popping and fizzing at his lek. A family of which I am very fond. Various skulkers such as Sooretama Slaty Ant-Shrike, White-flanked Antwren and Long-billed Wren gave themselves up, responding to Peter's tapes and illuminated by laser pointers. Yellow-backed Tanager was new for the list and for me, another wonderful bird family.
As the morning wore on and got hotter and hotter, the path became very narrow, steeply uphill and the pace increasingly fast as there were no birds seen nor heard.
By the time we reached the wetland area it was 45C in the sun and 36C in the shade - of which there was little.
Positively life draining heat. I lost all will to bird - that takes some doing. The only new bird wanted by me had not been seen all year, hopes were low, but a single male Masked Duck appeared amongst the Whistling Ducks and Brazilian Teal. Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture was also a new trip and world list bird, White-rumped Monjita and Common Waxbills a pleasure to see again. Not enough shade on the causeway for the discussion re whether Muscovy Duck was countable or not! Peter was scathing, others tongue in cheek keen to add it.
Absolutely shattered, steaming hot and wet through, the van was a welcome sight. The whole group sat as soon as they saw some benches in the shade - but shot up when an apparently amazed Peter suggested driving the van over to collect us.
Two Tropical Screech Owls were back in their favoured tree and there we had an unscheduled lecture from Nicholas Locke, the English/Brazilian in charge of the park. This would normally be of interest to me but I departed to sit on the van step, soon joined by Alex. Andy Foster,our Lodge owner, lived here for two years and started the Park off.
The driver, Mauro, had visited his mother in law whilst we were away and noticed some 'different herons'.
A short detour down a track and four lovely Whistling Herons at a roadside pool, flanks and throats heaving as they panted in the extreme heat.
Back in time for a welcome lunch of tasty Chicken Stroganoff and the usual salad etc.
I had a nap after lunch (real oldie stuff) whilst Pam read, we had a coffee on the porch and then I tried again to photograph the Hummingbirds etc. The rest of the group had gone off birding the Lodge Trails again. I wish I still could but have to frustratingly accept that I could in the past. Some of the photographs I took with my Digital Camera Module (DCM)attached to my scope.
Rufous-bellied Thrush
Plain-breasted Thrush
Golden-Chevroned Tanager
Male Brazilian Tanager (I wish it was a better photo)
Some of the other birds photographed in the garden
Blue Dacnis
House Wren
Violet-capped Woodnymph
Red-necked Tanager
Sayaca Tanager
Swallow-tailed Hummingbird
Saffron Finch
Chestnut-bellied Euphonia
Grey-hooded Flycatcher
25/03/2009
Serra Dos Orgaos National Park
Wednesday March 11
The usual 7.00 departure, arriving at the lower section of the park at its opening time of 8.00. We saw three Guira Cuckoos, Savanna Hawk, Picazuro Pigeon and a Wattled Jacana as we drove.
After scanning the parking area, we walked down a very wide tarmac road through tall rainforest for the next one and a half hours. The views of the mountains from which the park gets its name (Organ Mountains) were stunning in the hot sunshine. A clear day too for a change.
Not a very fruitful walk with regard to birds seen but a few extras added. On return to the vehicle, Peter took orders for drinks and a savoury pastry before we drove 10 minutes to a roadside cafe, chosen for its bird feeders and views across the tree tops. Not a single bird on the feeding tables, just plenty of whole pawpaws! But, the shop was interesting, an upmarket delicatessen advantageously placed along the main Rio road.
Another 25 minute drive before showing our passports in order to enter the gate to the higher altitude part of the same park. Brazilian law states that passports must always be carried. Judy had forgotten hers but Peter wangled it somehow. The van was parked in a small clearing at the end of the road, lunch was dispensed and Pam and I made our way to the concrete table and chairs overlooking a pool in the river. The others left for the Grade D walk up a dry stream bed and boulders towards the summit.
I admire Andy's fortitude in completing the walks, considering his physical disability following a cycle crash induced stroke last year.
There we sat until 2.15, waiting for the heat of the day to pass. Spiralling Black Vultures, a Mantled Hawk (the only one seen), a male Brazilian Ruby bathing at the edge of the small weir and a pair feeding on fuchsia type flowers, dragonflies cruising by as did several varieties of butterfly. A black and white variety of the latter clustered on the ground, wings rarely open, defying photo attempts but Pam tried.
A large shining bronze beetle staggered across the weir and an even larger one climbed a tree trunk out of photo reach.
People came, looked and went, the security guard wandered about and, at last time to explore the splendid boardwalk. Only about 400 metres long, strong and steady, hugging the mountainside, giving canopy level views.........of no birds! It stopped suddenly, looking across a gap at an incomplete aqueduct and there I sat, listening to frustrating bird noises, pishing madly but to no apparent avail. Black-goggled Tanagers flew through and then a small bird appeared low in front of me - just as two locals noisily arrived. It was probably a Variable Ant-Shrike, identified from an extraneous noise on one of Peter's tapes. One other sighting near a bamboo thicket was identified as a Spix's Spinetail, by both myself and Peter, it had rufous scapulars only, unlike other Spinetails. Another 'one and only' sighting to make up for the ones we miss. A hot and weary Judy arrived having left the group to make her own way down. We reurned to the parking area in time for the others to arrive dead on 4.00, to eagerly check our differing experiences. Peter had almost trodden on a large species of Bothrops Jararaca ( a Lancehead variety venomous snake responsible for most of the bites in this region). This had delayed the group whilst they waited for it to get off the track. The following photo is from the internet.
They had also seen a porcupine up a tree but very few birds. Judy had seen a family of Coatimundi after she left the others.
A one hour and twenty minutes drive back for a shower and hairwash before a delicious supper which included pork chops. Pam performed the nightly ritual of re-filling our six half litre water bottles from the -free- dispenser in the dining room whilst I downloaded her photographs, before a welcome retirement.
The usual 7.00 departure, arriving at the lower section of the park at its opening time of 8.00. We saw three Guira Cuckoos, Savanna Hawk, Picazuro Pigeon and a Wattled Jacana as we drove.
After scanning the parking area, we walked down a very wide tarmac road through tall rainforest for the next one and a half hours. The views of the mountains from which the park gets its name (Organ Mountains) were stunning in the hot sunshine. A clear day too for a change.
Not a very fruitful walk with regard to birds seen but a few extras added. On return to the vehicle, Peter took orders for drinks and a savoury pastry before we drove 10 minutes to a roadside cafe, chosen for its bird feeders and views across the tree tops. Not a single bird on the feeding tables, just plenty of whole pawpaws! But, the shop was interesting, an upmarket delicatessen advantageously placed along the main Rio road.
Another 25 minute drive before showing our passports in order to enter the gate to the higher altitude part of the same park. Brazilian law states that passports must always be carried. Judy had forgotten hers but Peter wangled it somehow. The van was parked in a small clearing at the end of the road, lunch was dispensed and Pam and I made our way to the concrete table and chairs overlooking a pool in the river. The others left for the Grade D walk up a dry stream bed and boulders towards the summit.
I admire Andy's fortitude in completing the walks, considering his physical disability following a cycle crash induced stroke last year.
There we sat until 2.15, waiting for the heat of the day to pass. Spiralling Black Vultures, a Mantled Hawk (the only one seen), a male Brazilian Ruby bathing at the edge of the small weir and a pair feeding on fuchsia type flowers, dragonflies cruising by as did several varieties of butterfly. A black and white variety of the latter clustered on the ground, wings rarely open, defying photo attempts but Pam tried.
A large shining bronze beetle staggered across the weir and an even larger one climbed a tree trunk out of photo reach.
People came, looked and went, the security guard wandered about and, at last time to explore the splendid boardwalk. Only about 400 metres long, strong and steady, hugging the mountainside, giving canopy level views.........of no birds! It stopped suddenly, looking across a gap at an incomplete aqueduct and there I sat, listening to frustrating bird noises, pishing madly but to no apparent avail. Black-goggled Tanagers flew through and then a small bird appeared low in front of me - just as two locals noisily arrived. It was probably a Variable Ant-Shrike, identified from an extraneous noise on one of Peter's tapes. One other sighting near a bamboo thicket was identified as a Spix's Spinetail, by both myself and Peter, it had rufous scapulars only, unlike other Spinetails. Another 'one and only' sighting to make up for the ones we miss. A hot and weary Judy arrived having left the group to make her own way down. We reurned to the parking area in time for the others to arrive dead on 4.00, to eagerly check our differing experiences. Peter had almost trodden on a large species of Bothrops Jararaca ( a Lancehead variety venomous snake responsible for most of the bites in this region). This had delayed the group whilst they waited for it to get off the track. The following photo is from the internet.
They had also seen a porcupine up a tree but very few birds. Judy had seen a family of Coatimundi after she left the others.
A one hour and twenty minutes drive back for a shower and hairwash before a delicious supper which included pork chops. Pam performed the nightly ritual of re-filling our six half litre water bottles from the -free- dispenser in the dining room whilst I downloaded her photographs, before a welcome retirement.
The Theodora Trail
Tuesday March 10
A Guianan Squirrel on the humming bird feeders was the first excitement of the day before departing for the half day excursion.
After a 20 minute drive from the Lodge,we arrived at the beginning of the Theodora Trail. We parked near a dead car lot, birding the scrub nearby before entering the path, which starts at 1100 metres altitude and looks like the heavily overgrown entrance to an old railway cutting. It turned out this gradually descending path was indeed part of the old Cachoeiras-Nova Friburgo railway line and, in places, still had some remaining asphalt. Sounds good...... It was actually a very narrow path around a hill, sometimes splashing through running water, a mimosa-like shrub snatching at our legs and arms, causing an allergic reaction in both Pam and myself. An enormous landslide-caused fallen tree to climb over, others to duck under, with some very steep drops down to the valley and main road below. Vertiginous. The whole walk enlivened by some good birds. Pam and I caught up with Yellow-eared Woodpecker, a fleeting view of a Grey-fronted Dove, various Woodcreepers and Foliage Gleaners, including Lesser Woodcreeper which was new for us. Rufous-backed Antvireo and Star-throated Antwren were also new as were Pin-tailed Manakin and White-throated Spadebill. A lot of skulking birds deep in the undergrowth to-day, the laser pointers were invaluable.
John found a very large stick insect, don't know how he saw that! It was difficult to find when it was pointed out, hidden amongst foliage. The usual good variety of stunning butterflies including the ethereal Blue Morpho, floating by on azure paper wings at a very deceptive rate. We've yet to see one perched, this photograph is not mine and none do it justice. The wingspan must be at least six inches.
A brief stop for Peter to have a smoke, saw everyone sit down for a rest, I'm not the only one who's tired. My feet and legs, still heavily swollen from the flight still hadn't recovered by the evening meal.
Most of the men + Helena went for a walk along the Lodge trails post the after lunch rest. Pam and I staggered to the pool area to sit at the tables to write postcards. The only one available here is an uninspiring photo of the Lodge, all the bird ones sold out and no more are being ordered until these have gone. Very short-sighted in my opinion, it meant that we sent under half of the usual number.
A tremendous rainstorm brought the swifts silhouetted low against the dark hillside, enabling us to identify three Lesser Swallow-tailed Swifts amongst the Lodge-nesting Ashy-tailed. Their forked tails and white trailing edge to the wings showed up well.
After a chat with the affable owner, Andy, the rain eased and we made our stiff-legged escape.
Earlier in the week, I'd asked Mauro the driver if some very large fruits in the huge tree at the Lodge entrance were Durian.
No, they were Jackfruit.
Peter overheard and asked if I'd like to taste one, if so, he'd get the gardener to cut one down. To-day he did. We found Helena, who's of Bangladeshi extraction, preparing the fruit as best she could remember from seeing her mother do so.
The peardrop shaped edible sections nestling amongst the fibrous interior were about four inches long and yellow. The taste of the flesh was indeterminate tropical sweetness, not as full flavoured as mango but a similar consistency with a creamy stone the size of that of a date in the middle. Very pleasant but not stunning.
To-day's four and a half hour walk was very enervating so we were not late to bed.
A Guianan Squirrel on the humming bird feeders was the first excitement of the day before departing for the half day excursion.
After a 20 minute drive from the Lodge,we arrived at the beginning of the Theodora Trail. We parked near a dead car lot, birding the scrub nearby before entering the path, which starts at 1100 metres altitude and looks like the heavily overgrown entrance to an old railway cutting. It turned out this gradually descending path was indeed part of the old Cachoeiras-Nova Friburgo railway line and, in places, still had some remaining asphalt. Sounds good...... It was actually a very narrow path around a hill, sometimes splashing through running water, a mimosa-like shrub snatching at our legs and arms, causing an allergic reaction in both Pam and myself. An enormous landslide-caused fallen tree to climb over, others to duck under, with some very steep drops down to the valley and main road below. Vertiginous. The whole walk enlivened by some good birds. Pam and I caught up with Yellow-eared Woodpecker, a fleeting view of a Grey-fronted Dove, various Woodcreepers and Foliage Gleaners, including Lesser Woodcreeper which was new for us. Rufous-backed Antvireo and Star-throated Antwren were also new as were Pin-tailed Manakin and White-throated Spadebill. A lot of skulking birds deep in the undergrowth to-day, the laser pointers were invaluable.
John found a very large stick insect, don't know how he saw that! It was difficult to find when it was pointed out, hidden amongst foliage. The usual good variety of stunning butterflies including the ethereal Blue Morpho, floating by on azure paper wings at a very deceptive rate. We've yet to see one perched, this photograph is not mine and none do it justice. The wingspan must be at least six inches.
A brief stop for Peter to have a smoke, saw everyone sit down for a rest, I'm not the only one who's tired. My feet and legs, still heavily swollen from the flight still hadn't recovered by the evening meal.
Most of the men + Helena went for a walk along the Lodge trails post the after lunch rest. Pam and I staggered to the pool area to sit at the tables to write postcards. The only one available here is an uninspiring photo of the Lodge, all the bird ones sold out and no more are being ordered until these have gone. Very short-sighted in my opinion, it meant that we sent under half of the usual number.
A tremendous rainstorm brought the swifts silhouetted low against the dark hillside, enabling us to identify three Lesser Swallow-tailed Swifts amongst the Lodge-nesting Ashy-tailed. Their forked tails and white trailing edge to the wings showed up well.
After a chat with the affable owner, Andy, the rain eased and we made our stiff-legged escape.
Earlier in the week, I'd asked Mauro the driver if some very large fruits in the huge tree at the Lodge entrance were Durian.
No, they were Jackfruit. Peter overheard and asked if I'd like to taste one, if so, he'd get the gardener to cut one down. To-day he did. We found Helena, who's of Bangladeshi extraction, preparing the fruit as best she could remember from seeing her mother do so.
The peardrop shaped edible sections nestling amongst the fibrous interior were about four inches long and yellow. The taste of the flesh was indeterminate tropical sweetness, not as full flavoured as mango but a similar consistency with a creamy stone the size of that of a date in the middle. Very pleasant but not stunning.
To-day's four and a half hour walk was very enervating so we were not late to bed.
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