25/03/2009

Serra Dos Orgaos National Park

Wednesday March 11
The usual 7.00 departure, arriving at the lower section of the park at its opening time of 8.00. We saw three Guira Cuckoos, Savanna Hawk, Picazuro Pigeon and a Wattled Jacana as we drove.



After scanning the parking area, we walked down a very wide tarmac road through tall rainforest for the next one and a half hours. The views of the mountains from which the park gets its name (Organ Mountains) were stunning in the hot sunshine. A clear day too for a change.
Not a very fruitful walk with regard to birds seen but a few extras added. On return to the vehicle, Peter took orders for drinks and a savoury pastry before we drove 10 minutes to a roadside cafe, chosen for its bird feeders and views across the tree tops. Not a single bird on the feeding tables, just plenty of whole pawpaws! But, the shop was interesting, an upmarket delicatessen advantageously placed along the main Rio road.

Another 25 minute drive before showing our passports in order to enter the gate to the higher altitude part of the same park. Brazilian law states that passports must always be carried. Judy had forgotten hers but Peter wangled it somehow. The van was parked in a small clearing at the end of the road, lunch was dispensed and Pam and I made our way to the concrete table and chairs overlooking a pool in the river. The others left for the Grade D walk up a dry stream bed and boulders towards the summit.

I admire Andy's fortitude in completing the walks, considering his physical disability following a cycle crash induced stroke last year.
There we sat until 2.15, waiting for the heat of the day to pass. Spiralling Black Vultures, a Mantled Hawk (the only one seen), a male Brazilian Ruby bathing at the edge of the small weir and a pair feeding on fuchsia type flowers, dragonflies cruising by as did several varieties of butterfly. A black and white variety of the latter clustered on the ground, wings rarely open, defying photo attempts but Pam tried.

A large shining bronze beetle staggered across the weir and an even larger one climbed a tree trunk out of photo reach.

People came, looked and went, the security guard wandered about and, at last time to explore the splendid boardwalk. Only about 400 metres long, strong and steady, hugging the mountainside, giving canopy level views.........of no birds! It stopped suddenly, looking across a gap at an incomplete aqueduct and there I sat, listening to frustrating bird noises, pishing madly but to no apparent avail. Black-goggled Tanagers flew through and then a small bird appeared low in front of me - just as two locals noisily arrived. It was probably a Variable Ant-Shrike, identified from an extraneous noise on one of Peter's tapes. One other sighting near a bamboo thicket was identified as a Spix's Spinetail, by both myself and Peter, it had rufous scapulars only, unlike other Spinetails. Another 'one and only' sighting to make up for the ones we miss. A hot and weary Judy arrived having left the group to make her own way down. We reurned to the parking area in time for the others to arrive dead on 4.00, to eagerly check our differing experiences. Peter had almost trodden on a large species of Bothrops Jararaca ( a Lancehead variety venomous snake responsible for most of the bites in this region). This had delayed the group whilst they waited for it to get off the track. The following photo is from the internet.

They had also seen a porcupine up a tree but very few birds. Judy had seen a family of Coatimundi after she left the others.
A one hour and twenty minutes drive back for a shower and hairwash before a delicious supper which included pork chops. Pam performed the nightly ritual of re-filling our six half litre water bottles from the -free- dispenser in the dining room whilst I downloaded her photographs, before a welcome retirement.

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