25/03/2009

The Theodora Trail

Tuesday March 10
A Guianan Squirrel on the humming bird feeders was the first excitement of the day before departing for the half day excursion.
After a 20 minute drive from the Lodge,we arrived at the beginning of the Theodora Trail. We parked near a dead car lot, birding the scrub nearby before entering the path, which starts at 1100 metres altitude and looks like the heavily overgrown entrance to an old railway cutting. It turned out this gradually descending path was indeed part of the old Cachoeiras-Nova Friburgo railway line and, in places, still had some remaining asphalt. Sounds good...... It was actually a very narrow path around a hill, sometimes splashing through running water, a mimosa-like shrub snatching at our legs and arms, causing an allergic reaction in both Pam and myself. An enormous landslide-caused fallen tree to climb over, others to duck under, with some very steep drops down to the valley and main road below. Vertiginous. The whole walk enlivened by some good birds. Pam and I caught up with Yellow-eared Woodpecker, a fleeting view of a Grey-fronted Dove, various Woodcreepers and Foliage Gleaners, including Lesser Woodcreeper which was new for us. Rufous-backed Antvireo and Star-throated Antwren were also new as were Pin-tailed Manakin and White-throated Spadebill. A lot of skulking birds deep in the undergrowth to-day, the laser pointers were invaluable.
John found a very large stick insect, don't know how he saw that! It was difficult to find when it was pointed out, hidden amongst foliage. The usual good variety of stunning butterflies including the ethereal Blue Morpho, floating by on azure paper wings at a very deceptive rate. We've yet to see one perched, this photograph is not mine and none do it justice. The wingspan must be at least six inches.

A brief stop for Peter to have a smoke, saw everyone sit down for a rest, I'm not the only one who's tired. My feet and legs, still heavily swollen from the flight still hadn't recovered by the evening meal.
Most of the men + Helena went for a walk along the Lodge trails post the after lunch rest. Pam and I staggered to the pool area to sit at the tables to write postcards. The only one available here is an uninspiring photo of the Lodge, all the bird ones sold out and no more are being ordered until these have gone. Very short-sighted in my opinion, it meant that we sent under half of the usual number.
A tremendous rainstorm brought the swifts silhouetted low against the dark hillside, enabling us to identify three Lesser Swallow-tailed Swifts amongst the Lodge-nesting Ashy-tailed. Their forked tails and white trailing edge to the wings showed up well.
After a chat with the affable owner, Andy, the rain eased and we made our stiff-legged escape.
Earlier in the week, I'd asked Mauro the driver if some very large fruits in the huge tree at the Lodge entrance were Durian.

No, they were Jackfruit.
Peter overheard and asked if I'd like to taste one, if so, he'd get the gardener to cut one down. To-day he did. We found Helena, who's of Bangladeshi extraction, preparing the fruit as best she could remember from seeing her mother do so.

The peardrop shaped edible sections nestling amongst the fibrous interior were about four inches long and yellow. The taste of the flesh was indeterminate tropical sweetness, not as full flavoured as mango but a similar consistency with a creamy stone the size of that of a date in the middle. Very pleasant but not stunning.
To-day's four and a half hour walk was very enervating so we were not late to bed.

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